Snake Avoidance: Week 1 - Games 1, 2, 3

A note about these games. There is no right or wrong about what your dog does in these games. If s/he goes for the reinforcement instead of coming to you, control the environment - i.e. block access to the reinforcement. What your dog is suppose to be learning here is that all reinforcement comes from you or at your direction. Corrections at this stage will inhibit this learning - the dog will understand that you don't want him to steal reinforcement but it won't become his OWN decision.

This is what we're going for - the dog understanding the choices and which decisions actually get him the goodies. When he is outside, whether it's in your back yard, at a park, or hiking in the woods, he isn't always within sight or reach. It's impossible to correct a dog when you can't see what he's doing. Remember that 80 - 85% of all snake bites happen in the back yard. Chasing cats usually occurs because some silly cat comes in HIS yard, same with porcupines, skunks, badgers, coyotes, etc. Or you are out hiking and either the dog is out of sight or the dangerous/odiferous critter is.

I have to say I was surprised she found game 3 challenging - it just goes to show how contextual training can be . We have played similar games with me being in front but never at the side. You will see she was really mugging my hand but after playing a few times she knew she was to move away. I do not think she understood the part she should do something differently though. Why is it we want that? I realize the third time she moved off I actually rewarded another stand but in my head I rewarded because she moved off quicker . I will continue to practice Thanks

Great start !!!

The reason we want the different behaviors on game 3 is the same as free shaping but without the clicker telling the dog that any movement is ok. Self control and self awareness are the goals here, that the dog can think for itself and puzzle out the rules of the game without the human giving cues and clicks and marks and body language.

The only thing I would say about further practice on game 3 is to wait a little longer for her to do something else. And remember that even a turned head, a blink or a tail way is considered a movement. It doesn't have to be something big.

The moving off isn't the important part, it's the behavior she comes up with that is. Don't worry if she doesn't move off if she actually offers something.

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Don't play catch up, play the games one each day, if you have to do them sporadically this week, and then start at one a day next week, that's totally fine. But please don't try to jam them together. I tried that at one point in my research and it just doesn't work.

Most of all, have fun !!

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Have the treat in the hand that is closest to Badger. That way you're not crossing your body with your hand or turning to face him so he sees the treat hand.

The second thing to change is part of the first. Because you have the treat in the hand farthest from Badger it kinda forced you to turn to face him. Sitting in front of us, looking at us, waiting for a treat is the most reinforced behavior most dogs have - even sport dogs in my experience.

Be aware of every small movement that Badger might make, you caught most of them, but the stand from the sit, I would have taken at 26. I'm not sure from the video what you did reward him for, but the stand happened before that. It's hard for me to see micro movements in the videos.

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Question about Day 2 game -with the distraction on the floor, does the dog "sometimes" get permission to take the food/toy from the floor, but only after choosing to come to me several times first? Thanks!

I've done it both ways, it's mainly going to depend on how much self control and what kinds of choices the dog is making otherwise. If the dog is doing well at ignoring the toy and coming to you, then sure, you can tell him/her to "get it" every once in awhile.

This is the differential reinforcement coming into play where the dog learns that "sometimes" he can chase it :)