K9 Conditioning: Bungee Exercises

 Plyometric activity will also help with endurance activities, such as herding and hunting.  Keep in mind that the dog’s body needs at least a twenty-four hour rest in between with plyometic activities, so make sure you take weekend trials and training sessions into consideration when you schedule these exercises.  Ideally, it should be added in once to twice a week. 

The plyometric activities will include things we have discussed:  controlled ball playing, jump grids, and moving with a bungee cord. 

The bungee cord activity may be performed on flat ground or in combination with an activity, and I like to do it for dog althetes, dogs recovering from iliopsoas injuries, and for dogs with hindlimb weakness.  You should choose a sturdy bungee cord; they are available at most hardware stores.  I have quite a few of varying strengths.  Next, secure the hook of the bungee cord to a secure object, such as a hook in the wall, a fence, etc.  The last thing we would ever want to happen is for the bungee cord to snap and come back at you and the dog.   I highly recommend a harness when doing this activity so it isn’t pulling on the dog’s neck.  Make sure the bungee cord is safely secured onto your dog’s harness. 

Begin this activity with the dog on a non-skid surface.  You can use a yoga mat or the material that is used to line shelves or put under carpets to stop them from sliding.  Now, ask the dog to move to the end of the bungee and hold with a little bit of resistance.  The goal here will be control, not for the dog to pull forward and shoot back into the wall.  I have found that using a spoonful of peanut butter or cheese works nicely to encourage the dog to hold the position for ten to fifteen seconds.  The isometric hold will be working on the back legs.  Try to repeat this five times to start, and do not be surprised if the dog is tired.  This is a lot of work.  Try this every other day to start. 

Once the dog is feeling comfortable, ask him to move forward further for a treat, and then slowly move back.  I continue with this until I see the dog beginning to snap or fly back – we want to see control with these activities.  The stronger the dog gets, the further he will be able to move.  The activities may then advance from there.